Waking up at Refuge Bertone on the TMB
Breakfast was interesting. Laid out at the tables was a cereal bowl and a package of crackers. There was no cereal so we eventually determined that the bowls were for coffee. Not the best meal I have had on the trip, but I don’t really need much besides coffee to get going. I packed up my stuff and hit the trail.
“From here, a balcony trail is easy underfoot making it that much easier to take in the stunning views of the Grandes Jorasses and the Italian Val Ferret. Finally, you’ll arrive at Rifugio Bonatti, one of the most atmospheric refuges on the entire TMB. After spending the past three nights in Italy, the Tour du Mont Blanc crosses the Grand Col Ferret and enters Switzerland where it will remain until crossing back into France in three days time. The route into Switzerland is enjoyable, with the highlight being standing on the Grand Col Ferret, the border between Italy and Switzerland, and taking in both the expansive views ahead of you as well as looking back at the ground covered behind you. From Rifugio Bonatti the trail continues on a balcony path before a gentle descent to the head of the Val Ferret. From here, the long and arduous climb to the Grand Col Ferret begins, which is only broken up by visiting Rifugio Elena, which is reached approximately half way up the climb. Upon reaching the Col TMB hikers will be treated to views of distant Swiss peaks as well as deep into the Swiss Val Ferret. The descent is straightforward and follows the contours of the hillside before making a turn just after the Alpage de la Peule”
The hiking was flat, probably the only flat section on the entire 100 mile trek. As usual, the morning chill and quiet sunrise is the best part of the day.
I saw an animal up ahead on the trail on the crest of the trail. I thought it was a wolf as I crept closer trying not to startle it. I got my phone out to start taking pictures and ended up grabbing the National Geographic wildlife blue ribbon prize of a…..guy and his dog going for a morning walk.
Eventually reaching Refuge Bonatti, I stopped for a quick break before continuing downhill into the Val Ferret where I stopped for more hydration.
No that I was down in the valley it was time to climb back out. It is a mentally grueling endeavor, especially when doing it more than one in the same day, today I was lucky and only had to get motivated for 1 big climb to the Grand Col Ferret. It was one of the most challenging uphills, but I was feeling good. I was rested, not hungover (always a plus) and I met a couple who were fast walking the trail without packs and by keeping them in front of me I was focused and rest and fatigue was put on the back burner. We stopped hallway at Refuge Elena for some lunch (in background of below picture). From there it was another hour of nonstop just pushing to the col.
Down into refuge Gîte Alpage de La Peule.
I was a little disappointed that I arrived by 2:30. This was supposed to be a real long day that I intended to struggle to get in by 7pm, but that’s how it goes when trying to judge distances, especially with elevation. The one unfortunate part about the TMB these days is that with the increased popularity, you have too book all the lodging in advance, meaning you are a slave to the itinerary. About 5 years ago you used to be able to walk into a refuge and say, “I feel pretty good, I was going to stop here but I will push through to the next spot and keep going until around 5pm.” No longer, you would have no room if you did things on the fly. Pretty much everyday I was done hiking by 2:30 and had to sit and wait for checkin and dinner. Although it actually worked out in my favor as the heavens opened up and a major story rolled in by 4pm while I was nursing a beer under the shelter of an umbrella.
I was staying at a dairy farm, and watched the animals throughout the evening finding a new respect for their intelligence along with a new sense of guilt for all the ones I have consumed over the years.
A nice meal that the YouTubers next to me at the table performed multiple takes in order to get the right mix of excitement and detail crammed into a 30 second clip.
The next day was another extremely short day. In fact I was only hiking down about 45 minutes into the Swiss village of La Fouly. It was Saturday and there was a race happening on this section of the trail. I took my time getting started and sat and watch some of the festivities.
After the runners passed I found some alternate trails to tackle instead of heading directly into the village.
I spent an hour sitting in the grass, enjoying the breeze with these guys as they took a break from keeping the sheep in check
I finally started my descent into La Fouly. Stopping to check out more of the race setup and enjoying pizza and beer before I could check into the Edelweiss hotel for the night. I was in a dorm again, with shared meals but this was not like the other refuges. All the Toilets had seats!
While I was sitting in the lobby, an older couple walked into the lobby and said to hostess, “We were told some one in here is our guide.” They looked at me, and before I even had time to deflect their inquiry, they had already realized their mistaken and moved their gazer onto someone more physically appropriate. Another evening of hail and rain ensued. Dodged another bullet.
Good breakfast and off we go!
“The so-called easiest stage of the Tour du Mont Blanc occurs on Stage 7 where trekkers will enjoy a valley walk between the two Swiss villages of La Fouly and Champex-Lac. You won’t visit any dizzying heights or stunning mountain passes on this stage, but you will enjoy quintessential pastoral Switzerland with its window flower boxes and tranquil atmosphere. Don’t be fooled either, simply because this is the easiest stage on the route doesn’t mean it will be easy! There is a surprise steep climb to reach Champex at the end of the day which catches many hikers off guard. The route leaves La Fouly and quickly crosses back over the river, staying on the opposite side of the river from the main valley road. The highlight of the stage is wandering through some lovely Swiss villages along the TMB, with the route visiting Praz-de-Fort, Les Arlaches, and Issert in quick succession on the later half of the day. Once past Issert you’ll begin the final climb to Champex, which takes about 1.5 hours. It is a forested hike that is adorned with carved woodland creatures, giving some interest to an otherwise pedestrian climb into the lovely lakeside village of Champex-Lac.”
Once I got to the lake I went for a swim and slept in the grass, before realizing that everyone was staring at me because I had the contents of my bag strewn across the grass and looked like a homeless person to those strolling by on a Sunday afternoon.
I mistakenly thought my lodging was only a few minutes away so I dosed up on THC and downed a bag of salt and vinegar potato chips and headed off with my flip flops on. The trail on increasingly difficult and with my dry mouth and loss of coordination, at some point I had to stop and put the hiking boots back on my feet.
Eventually I walked into Relais d’Arpette, dropped my pack and took in the view of tomorrows alternate up and over the Fenêtre d’Arpette variant.
Many people spend the evening washing and drying clothes. By this point I no longer cared. I was about 9 days into this trip and did not feel it really mattered if I washed the clothes as they would be soaked and putrid within 2 hours of the next day’s hike. I don’t think I have ever smelled clothes this bad.
The next morning it was time for the toughest part of the entire trail: The Fenêtre d’Arpette variant.
“Two trail options exist for TMB hikers traveling between Champex and Trient. The far more challenging option crosses the high Fenêtre d’Arpette, bringing hikers close to glaciers and across rugged boulder fields. It’s widely considered the most difficult section of the Tour du Mont Blanc. The route begins the long climb up the Val d’Arpette, initially on a mix of wide track and trail. About 2 km past the refuge, the track makes a sharp left turn, while the trail to the Fenêtre d’Arpette branches off to the right. From here, you’ll be on narrow singletrack—first through forest, then into increasingly open terrain as the vegetation thins with altitude. As you climb, the views begin to open up, and you may catch your first glimpse of the narrow notch high above—this is the Fenêtre d’Arpette. The trail remains good here, but the gradient steadily increases, so pace yourself, take breaks, and enjoy the scenery. The trail steepens further. The views continue to improve—looking back, the entire valley opens toward Champex; ahead, rugged peaks rise above you, with the pass just visible depending on your angle. With about 0.5 km remaining to the col, the trail disappears into a large boulder field. The route is marked by red and white paint blazes and occasional cairns. Snow can linger here well into July. After navigating around a particularly large boulder, the trail reappears, and a final steep set of switchbacks leads to the Fenêtre d’Arpette. At the top, the narrow notch offers spectacular views in both directions. Take time to soak it in—behind you lies the Val d’Arpette, and ahead the Trient Valley and the Trient Glacier. The initial descent is rocky, though less demanding than the ascent’s boulder field. A series of tight switchbacks leads downward, the trail gradually improves underfoot but retains an exposed feel, with steep drop-offs to your left. Lower down, it transitions into smoother singletrack. Beyond this point, the descent continues through a mix of forest and open terrain, eventually running alongside the torrent flowing from the glacier above. About 4 km from the pass, you’ll reach Chalet du Glacier—a great spot to stop for a snack and a sign that easier walking lies ahead.”
I made it up and down in about 5 hours. It was challenging, but nothing crazy. Nice views of what’s left of a glacier. Had a couple beers at the chalet and walked into Trient. Too early for checkin so I walked into town. After napping on the church steps I ran into my New Zealand friends and had beers and burger with them back at tonight’s lodging: Refuge Le Peuty
This place was quirky. The loft where the beds were stacked seemed like the apartment Charlie shared with his family in the original “Charlie and The Chocolate Factory” movie.
A great 4 course meal in the Yurt made up for the cramped spaces where I almost died climbing over people and descending multiple ladders to take a piss at 3am.
An early uphill slog to start the day
“From Trient, the Tour du Mont Blanc spends its final morning in Switzerland before crossing back into France via the Col du Blame for the final segments of the trail. On this stage you’ll be greeted at the top of the Col by stunning views down the Chamonix Valley, with Mont Blanc dominating the skyline. The Trail narrows and you begin the tough climb toward the Col de Balme. The trail is in great condition on this segment, although it feels as though you’re caught in a never ending series of steep switchbacks! Once you finally leave the trees you’ll get some great views back into Switzerland and also ahead towards the Col de Balme, which you’ll reach in approximately 2.5 km. The top of the col features not only beautiful views into France, but also a lovely refuge of the same name where you can find a bite to eat and enjoy the surroundings. From this point, the main TMB climbs even higher and reaches the ridge trail near the top of the Aiguillette des Posettes with its incredible views of Mont Blanc. It is a final steep descent from this point into Tré le Champ, which has limited accommodation available.”
From here a group of us opted to take a few variants to various peaks in the area. Something I would normally never do. I don’t do extra hiking, but I guess I finally hit my stride and enjoying the light pack and incredible views.
A nice video of a dog playing in the snow
I pulled into this place below, ordered a beer and an ice cream and asked what time is checkin. “Checkin? We don’t have lodging” Houston, we have a problem. I was a bit lost thinking this was my endpoint, but the one advantage of alpine hiking is you generally know where to go; up or down and I knew the next town was further down the valley if this osent the one.
Finally arriving at Auberge la Boerne
While chilling I watched a guy feed a chocolate Mars bar to a dog. I walked over and asked what he was doing. He unapologetically told me that he was giving treats to the dog. “You thought giving a dog chocolate was a good idea?” He saw no problem with it. I told the refuge owner, also the owner of the dog and they eventually dog the dog home to monitor him, not thinking it was serious enough to contact the local veterinarian. That evening we watched France lose to Spain in the World Cup semifinals. This meant I got very little sleep as my dorm room was full of drunks at 2am
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The final morning on the TMB. I am ready to get off this mountain. I need to clean my clothes, my body and sleep in a room alone. Every conversation was too long. I was at the end of my rope.
“Stage 10 of the Tour du Mont Blanc begins your walk along the famed Grand Balcon Sud trail, which routes the TMB high above the Chamonix valley with incredible views of the Mont Blanc massif. Given that you’ll have a bit more time on this stage, we highly recommend taking the variant route up to Lac Blanc to soak in this stunning alpine lake and views across the valley. The hike begins by leaving Tre-le-Champ on a well marked trail that traverses through a forested section before emerging above tree line near the Aiguillette d’Argentiere, a popular climbing spot. This is also the famed location of the TMB ladders, where hikers will need to navigate a series of ladders bolted to the rock face. This shouldn’t pose a problem for most hikers, but do be careful in wet conditions. Once past the ladders you’ll encounter a series of steep switchbacks that bring you up to a trail junction where you can continue higher to the Lacs des Chéserys and onto Lac Blanc.”
I got up and on the trail by 7am in order to not get backed up at the “Ladders” section of the trail. With traffic going both ways I imagined the backup in the Death Zone on Mt Everest at the Hillary Step.
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I breezed through the ladders with no one around and pushed on up to Lac Blanc
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I stopped briefly to get some water from a stream. I had completed the last uphill. It was all downhill on into Chamonix. Here is where I saw my first and only Ibex of the trip. Beautiful animal with those ornate antlers
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I got to the gondola about 1130. I could have taken it down into Chamonix, continued on the trail for another 3 hours on into the Start/Finish at Les Houches, or hicked down to my hotel in Chamonix. I opted for the last option.
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I ended up on an incredible trail that followed the contour line of the mountain for an hour. Cool breezes in pine forests with frequent waterfalls to lounge beside
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Eventually stumbling into town I appeared like those haggard souls I had seen 10 days earlier arriving from their completion of the TMB. I was a much different person both inside and out from the one that walked these streets the previous week.
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On cue another huge storm hit just as I sat outside for a meal. My timing was perfect once again. 257 258
The next morning I caught a shuttl to Geneva. I made it just in time to bolt onto a free walking tour of the city, learning about the birth of the Protest Reformation and Martin Luther and John Calvin.
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So strange walking around without all your possessions on your back. The following morning I walked over to the French side of the Airport in Geneva and head back home. The hike went incredibly well, especially without any training. I suffered no blisters or injuries of any kind and did not find the trail overly taxing. Maybe I got a few more of these still left in me
Until Next Time Darren
Until Tomorrow Darren
