The next day I made my way back to the bus station. Chivay turned out to one of my favorite stops on the trip due to its local small town charm.
I saw this picture on a pack of cigarettes waiting for my bus back to Arequipa
I thought it perfect. I wondered what it would be like if they tried to adopt this in the US. I figured the tobacco lobbyists would never allow it, and then if it got through congress, the suburban moms would not allow these images to be out in the open as death and dying is best left behind closed doors until it happens to you.
While waiting for my bus I saw the driver fill up a 2 liter jug of water and start pouring it into the radiator and all over the engine. I did not have a good feelin’ about this.
A few hours outside of town, I man got on the bus and stood in front of all the passengers.
He began this passionate talk, with words like “countrymen” and “bravery”. I assumed this was some revolutionary speech meant to unite the masses. He went on for 30 minutes and then he stopped and reached into his briefcase. I thought, here comes the literature, but it was small packets that looked like the ones that contain seeds. He started passing them around and continued his “Sinners in the Hands of an Angry God”, speech. I soon realized they were laxative samples. He went into the difficulties of being bound up and such. He was the original traveling salesman. People were climbing over the seats to buy these packets. It was quite comical. It was a tough act to follow, and the second guy selling antacids was no match.
I returned to the bus station in Arequipa, where I bought a night bus ticket to Puno, the city that lies on the banks of the famous Lake Titicaca. I had 7 hours to kill, so I got a cab to the main square. Before leaving the bus station I pulled S100 out of an ATM. I then attempted to change that into smaller bills, which was virtually impossible.
I was still pretty groggy at this point. I had a perfect storm going; I had the beginnings of the flu before leaving the US, I was now experiencing altitude sickness (headaches), dining on local fare, and sleeping for a few hours on buses and airport floors. I was told that people would stuff cocoa leaves in the mouth to achieve a sort of buzz to help tolerate to the altitude adjustment. The thought had crossed my mind, but as with all illegal substances, I steer clear out of fear that I will wake up naked tied to a tree in the main square with an Alpaca wearing my clothes.
I started snapping shots, going on tours of churches and visiting mansions of Peruvians of years past.
Here is a shot of a Grand Wagoneer, similar to the one I owned back in the states. Actually, with a good cleaning it appears to be in pretty decent shape.
I left the main city, crossed a river in search of some quieter neighborhoods
I stopped at one of the famous restaurants on the city’s outskirts, El Sol de Mayo.
I still had yet to sample the country’s national drink, the Pisco Sour (A mix of Pisco grapes and egg whites). I looked a bit out of place as I entered the restaurant. I found the bar, tried the drink, which was potent enough to make me realize I was only having one, and headed back towards the main square. Getting drunk in a foreign country is a recipe for disaster, or so I am told.
In my travel book, I read about a bar that overlooked the plaza and thought it would make a good spot for some sunset pictures. It was becoming a rather cool night and I had to break out another layer of gortex.
Once the people near the railing moved I gathered my pack and moved tables, in the process bumping a table and breaking a few glasses….stupid America.
There is a restaurant near home that features Ceviche (national dish of Peru), a dish of raw fish and cilantro, and I had to measure it up against the original product. My local restraint actually came out on top.
After wearing out my welcome I headed to an Irish bar to hold up until my bus left. Ending up back at the bus station I was left to wait a few more hours with the dregs of society
My bus arrived. I downed some sleeping pills, slipped on my blindfold and earplugs and settled in for a 8 hour trip.
Until Tomorrow
Darren
